Nozawa Onsen, Nagano Preficture is about 3.5 to 5 hour drive from Tokyo depending on traffic. About the same as Hakuba. Its about a 1.5 hour drive from Hakuba to Nozawa Onsen it is one of Japan's quaintest little ski towns. Nozawa Onsen is the one ski resort of any size that missed the 80's bubble leaving a traditional Japanese village. Packed tight amongst its narrow windy roads are countless Ryokans, onsens and traditional eateries. Nowhere can you see gaudy concrete monstrosities nor pink fluorescent souvenir shops that characterize many Japan's resorts, nor do you get the western style developments that Niseko and to a lesser extent Hakuba are known for (Fattwins says they are located at the center of town we didn't go there). Instead the village comprises of small traditional houses packed side by side in which you can imagine everyone is sitting on their tatami floors under their heated tables eating pickles and rice balls. For a ski tourist, this is as close to Japan as you are going to get. We were able to find deep pow in untouched trees after 3 days of no new snow.
We hit Nozawa a few days after the last storm and, as such, were not expecting much. We were, however, pleasantly surprised. The "inbounds" stuff was quite tracked but still held great low angle pockets. After a dump these low angle tree runs (or as we like to call them Tsondarific runs) would be fun for those who are not interested in sidecountry poaching. Patrol was also not a problem, we ducked the rope and dropped OB almost right in front of them and they didn't bat an eye.
Nozawa's grooming is top notch and the groom terrain does have character with lots of rolls, pitch changes and aspect changes. In fact, for some reason (perhaps helped by the beauty of the scenery) it reminded me a bit of Lake Louise. Like Louise of old, I also noticed what looked to be a large, well maintained park with a few step-up jumps, which is a feature that I believe resorts should be building more of.
Compared to other sidecountry areas in Nagano that we like to lap, the process takes a bit longer in Nozawa.
1. traverse out onto groomer
2. chair lift up
3. cattrack down to gondola
3. gondola up
4. walk 50m up a hill then ski down to chairlift up
5. ski down on groomers or mogals to chairlift up
The traverse/runout ends up back on a groomer so its easy to get back to a lift but the 5 step process back to the top is time consuming. You will not be able to get 10-15 quick runs in as we do other places. But the terrain is FKNA! Another meter of snow and that place will be more fun than a barrel of hookers and blow. However, please keep in mind we only explored one area of Nozawa and we are sure there are plenty more goods to be had on other parts of the mountain. Possibly easier to lap.
Ok Nozzle beta that will get me killed. The skyline is your friend get on the skyline and you can duck left or right into many great chutes and pillow lines. There are many Cliffs! Big cliffs so tread lightly if you cant see what is next. If you head down the skiers right you only have to take 2 lifts back to start another lap. To runs that are famous are shocker and Chutieboy both and long and deep.
Nozzle is prime on a dump day. the stand up gondola is you best friend. There are many lines that run from the mid station the lines are tight trees to wooded meadows. A few pillow areas as well. A very easy place to lap up and safer when the avie danger is too high. If you can make it around going under the 2 gondolas is a great run. It will remind you of the trees at Cortina. You have to go left out of the mid station. left onto the little cat track. hike up and set the boot pack then fire down. Patrol dont really like this run but it is a nice last run as it is north facing.
If the weather is killing you ie wind then the skiers far right of the mountain is where you want to play. Head onto the long cat track and play on the long angle tree shots. It aint much but if you are there then why not. Lastly most of the pine forests are open trees. poke around in them.
BACK COUNTRY
Lots of prime lines to be had. The problems are the steep uphills on the return trip. Also be carefull to no ski into another village. It has been done and you will end up far away from nozawa. I would hire a guide for any Back country.
Green = the ridgeline we explored right off the top chair
Blue = covered river/traverse/runout
Red = the 5 step process you must go through to lap that terrain
Black = short walk up a hill to the next chair
